Golden Pearl Male with Normal Hen
Home Sweet Home:

One thing is certain when it comes to the hobby of keeping button quail: Your success and enjoyment of the experience will relate directly to the housing you provide for your feathered friends. Fortunately for us, button quail are quite versatile and can be kept in a variety of housing alternatives. In this section we'll do our best to explain these alternatives to help you decide which one is best for you and your quail.

Which is best?

In order to decide which housing method will work for you, it will be important to understand a few basic facts about button quail:
  • Button quail are little game birds, with little game bird mentalities. Despite their small size and the fact that they have been raised in captivity for hundreds of years, they still retain many of the instincts of their wild ancestors. They can be very possessive of their space and may become aggressive if their boundaries are crossed. Each group of birds is different, with some living together in peace and harmony, while others will tear each other to shreds under the same conditions.
  • Whenever you have more than two button quail in a single enclosure, the social dynamic is very different from that of an individual pair; this must not be underestimated. Two button quail, regardless of sex, will generally live together peacefully, however the old adage "three's a crowd" is especially true when it comes to button quail.
  • Happy birds make happy bird keepers, and stressed birds make stressed bird keepers. The more attention you give to the housing of your quail, the happier you'll be and the more enjoyable you will find the entire experience.
To start with, there are two rules of thumb which you can apply to your personal situation:
  • When it comes to space, more is better.
  • When it comes to birds, less is better.
Taking these rules into account, the method you choose to house your button quail will depend on these two main factors:
  • The space you have available.
  • The number of birds you intend to keep.
The methods:

Button quail are generally kept in either colonies or individual pairs. Each method has its advantages, and I would characterize them like this: The colony method is good for those who wish to keep their birds in a casual environment, to observe and enjoy their natural behavior.  The individual pair method is more suited to those who may be interested in the technical aspects of genetics, colors, and selective breeding. It will depend on your personal objectives as to which method is best for you, or you may wish to explore a combination of the two.

The more, the merrier... (not always)

A colony, by my definition, is any number of birds, greater than two, living together in a single enclosure. This would include trios of one male and two females, or any other combination. The main prerequisite for this type of housing is adequate space. Three birds in a large, well planted aviary may co-exist peacefully and raise many broods of young. The same three birds in a ten gallon aquarium would undoubtedly fight, and someone would eventually be injured or worse. Given adequate space, a colony of button quail can be one of the most enjoyable methods for keeping these social little birds. To see them running around in a large space, unrestricted by the glass walls of a fish tank or a wire cage, and interacting with each other as they would in nature is very rewarding.

For colony space requirements, I recommend allowing at least two square feet of floor space per bird. This is a basic recommendation which can be adjusted for your own experience. In my experience, I have kept a dozen quail in an outdoor finch aviary of approximately 50  square feet, which was more than adequate.

Some advantages of the colony method are:
  • Central feeding and watering stations, reducing the chores of tending to multiple cages.
  • Collection of eggs may be easier since several hens will often lay their eggs in the same area.
  • Natural behavior is more  easily observed and appreciated in a larger colony environment.
The principal disadvantage of the colony method is the lack of control over breeding. It becomes difficult to sort out who is producing what, since males in a colony will mate with just about anything that moves. Inbreeding can also become a negative factor, but can easily be mitigated by adding fresh stock from different bloodlines to the colony every so often. Be on the lookout for genetic abnormalities as this may be a sign that you need to add new blood to the gene pool.

As I have mentioned, some groups of quail will live together peacefully, while some individuals will be aggressive no matter how much space they are afforded. For this reason, the colony method requires regular supervision and observation.  Aggression seems to be a contagious behavior in that once a particular bird is being harrassed, others are often compelled to imitate the behavior. To prevent this from becoming a regular occurrence, injured birds and aggressive quail should be removed as soon as they are detected.


Two's company:

The individual pair method has each pair residing in its own separate enclosure. This method is generally used by those who are interested in breeding for certain colors, patterns or combinations. The main advantage of this method is that breeding is carefully controlled by the keeper. Records of specific pairings and their offspring can be kept in order to select for the specific traits that the keeper desires.

Individual pairs have a smaller space requirement per bird than those in a colony environment, although the space rule still applies: more space is better. Individual pairs will usually bond with each other and seldom have a problem with aggression.

A basic space recommendation for individual pairs is 2.5 square feet per pair, with four square feet being even better, if you have the space. It cannot be overstated that the more space you provide for your quail, the happier you will be. The frequency of your cage cleaning duties will be directly proportional to the size of your cages. Smaller cages get soiled more quickly, causing various problems including illness and dirty feet which can result in the loss of toenails or even toes.

The main disadvantage to this method is the daily maintenance. Each cage has its own water and feed that must be serviced individually. Each cage must be cleaned regularly. Additionally, many individual cages with their individual accessories can be quite expensive. In the end  though, these are the tradeoffs for having control over the breeding of your quail.


The Mixed Aviary:

I have found that this is one of the most practical and enjoyable ways to keep button quail. As long as the space requirements and other design considerations are met, button quail make a wonderful addition to almost any mixed aviary setting. Button quail are regularly kept them with finches and doves, and I know of others who have kept them with parakeets without any problems. Button quail are often referred to as "little vaccum cleaners", keeping the aviary floor clean of spilled seed or other food items strewn about by their flying roommates.  That alone is a good reason to keep button quail in your aviary, but you will also appreciate their little quail behaviors, and the new dimension they add to your aviary by utilizing the floor space which is generally ignored by the other birds.

About Enclosures:

There are a many alternatives for housing your quail; some you can build yourself, and others are readily available from your local pet supply store:
  • Many commercially built bird cages are suitable for housing one or two pairs of quail. When shopping for a bird cage, look for cages that have more floor space, as that is the area that your quail will be occupying.  Some standard cages are very tall, so unless you plan to keep finches or canaries with your quail, these tall cages may not be the best use of your space.
  • Fish and reptile aquariums have long been used to house small numbers of button quail. Large aquariums, such as 80 gallons or more, can house several pairs if they contain plants, grasses or other sufficient cover.
  • Plastic bins, normally used for storage, make great enclosures for young birds or individual pairs.  I would recommend using bins that are at least 66 quart size or larger.  As with cages, some bins are tall and narrow.  A shorter bin of the same capacity will provide more floor space for the birds and is a better choice.  The tops of the bins should be modified by cutting out the center portion, then gluing screen material over the opening.  This will allow for better ventilation and also protect the birds from the "boink factor".
  • Sturdy wire cages can be constructed entirely from 1/2 inch by 1 inch aviary wire, also called cage wire.  It should be available at your local farm supply store. This material is cut from a roll, and is assembled using metal clips called "J" clips.  A special pair of pliers is required for these clips, but it is readily available for just a few dollars. Other accessories such as spring door latches and plastic edging are available to make a very functional cage from this material.
  • A combination of wood and wire hardware cloth can be used to create an enclosure of any size.  Poultry netting or chicken wire should be avoided because the wire spacing is usually large enough for mice or other pests to enter the enclosure. 1/4 inch mesh is sufficient to keep these pests away from your quail, as well as to keep your quail chicks inside.
  • If you are handy, you might build an outdoor walk-in aviary, or even convert an entire room in your house into a button quail habitat. A converted rabbit hutch or an old chicken coop could also make a good enclosure for button quail. The possibilities are endless.
Design Considerations:
  •  Because quail are terrestrial birds and generally only occupy the floor area of their enclosure, the height of the enclosure is virtually irrelevant.  However, some people have created elaborate, multi-level enclosures utilizing the added height, providing ramps for the quail to get to the different levels. This makes for a very interesting and appealing habitat.
  • Button quail can fly at just a couple of weeks old, so any enclosure you use must have a top on  it. Button quail also have an annoying habit of jumping straight up into the air whenever they are startled, or whenever else they feel like it. This is known as the "Boink Factor". This can result in major lacerations of the scalp and can even cause them to break their necks. For this reason, it is important in any enclosure, large or small, to install padding on the ceiling to protect them from this all too frequent behavior. Some options for padding include, foam, carpet padding, bubble wrap, towels, or a lightweight screen mesh top.
  • Button quail are masters of escape, especially if you have to raise the lid of their enclosure to service it. They can fly out of a small opening in an instant. For this reason, I use small access doors in the front of my cages which are just big enough for my arm to fit. The quail seem to be far less interested in escaping through the front than they are through the top.
  • Wire cages with 1/2 inch wire spacing are suitable for adolescent and adult quail. If you are planning to let your quail hatch their own eggs in their enclosure, install 1/4 inch or smaller mesh around the inside perimeter to prevent the chicks from escaping, as they can fit through a 1/2 inch space.
  • Ventilation is important, as it helps to keep the enclosure dry. Some people use plastic bins or fish aquariums for their quail, which will work fine as long as the tops are ventilated, however they don't stay as dry as the wire cages do, and they require more frequent cleaning. I personally use both bins and cages.
  • Secure footing is essential for your quail. This is accomplished by using any form of clean dry litter such as wood chips, hay, cob litter, or by using wire mesh for the floor. I use white wood shavings in all of my cages, and in the bins for my youngsters. Some people do not recommend using wire floors for button quail, however I know that it is used by many breeders successfully, and is recommended by Dr. Leland Hayes in his book about button quail. I believe that there are  advantages and disadvantages to any method, and that in this case it is a matter of personal preference. I would suggest that plastic coated wire be used in any case, and that a dusting  box or nest box be provided to give their feet a rest from the wire floor.
  • For individual pairs, I have found that installing visual dividers between cages seems to give the birds a better sense of security.  This results in calmer and more productive breeding pairs. Pairs kept in close proximity to each other seem to be more nervous, pacing incessantly if they are able to see their neighbors.
  • In any colony setting, providing plants, grasses, or other features for the quail to hide in will improve the overall behavior of the colony. Hens also like to find a secure place to lay their eggs as they are in a very vulnerable position during the laying process.
  • For outdoor enclosures, provide shielding from adverse weather. Drafts will cause your birds to become stressed and eventually ill. Dry quarters are essential to the health of your birds as wet litter becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and parasites which can harm your quail. Button quail are hardy to about 28 degrees Farenheit, provided they are mature and have been acclimated to the cold over time. In colder weather, supplemental heating may be required to keep them from freezing. I have successfully used heated blocks similar to the heated rocks used for reptiles. In cold weather, the quail will gather around the block to stay warm.
In Summary:

Whether you choose to keep your quail in a colony or in individual pairs, there's almost no wrong way to house them, as long as they have the space, shelter, and security that they need to be happy and healthy.  Using your imagination along with the space recommendations and basic requirements outlined above, you should be able to devise a suitable enclosure for your quail. Your quail are not too picky, so you can build your enclosure to suit your own requirements, and they will be just fine with it.

Always remember that the conditions in which you keep your quail will affect their behavior and their health. In the end, these factors will affect your enjoyment of this hobby. It can be a lot of fun or it can be a disaster that you might wish you had never started.

Over the years I have successfully raised button quail in individual pairs as well as in a colony setting. I am currently keeping all of my birds in individual pairs, but years ago I enjoyed my button quail colony so much that I plan to keep another one in the future. I'll keep you posted!

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Individual cage setup
Cage detail
Plastic bin brooder
A breeding pair